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Research suggests that many households who acquired toilets during this time have not abandoned open defecation entirely.

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people from lower castes are trying to avoid doing this type of work because it’s associated with their past and oppression,” she says. Convincing Indians of the benefits of any kind of toilet has been a secondary priority in official sanitation drives – the Modi government’s “Clean India Mission” has halved the spending on information, education and communication activities to 8 per cent of the total budget.In Uttar Pradesh, Santosh Kumar Singh is training community motivators who will fan out into villages like Parvar Poorab to break down community barriers to toilet use.“We have started [focusing on behaviour change], but it is too late,” he said.In Uttar Pradesh, India’s most populous state and with an open defecation rate among the worst in the country, officials acknowledge that they are not making inroads, even in priority villages like Parvar Poorab.“We are not facing any problem in the case of construction, but the major issue of toilet usage is our challenge, and regarding this we are helpless,” says Santosh Kumar Singh, who oversees the sanitation drive in the state.Shopkeeper Puttan Lal paid for his own toilet, embellished with tiles and a curtain, three months ago for his wife and young children.We get back in the vehicle after lunch as we drive to Chikni Mod, from where we will start our second cycling section (25km) today towards Bagad Ka Tiraha.

We end the day driving on to our hotel in Sariska National Park, set amongst the lush vistas of the Aravali Hills. We cover some 285 kilometres today, around 70 km of which will be by bike, meandering our way through sleepy villages and past fields of yellow mustard as we travel across a rural landscape still steeped in the traditions of the past.

We rarely have groups that are smaller than five or six people and the average is 12 people plus an Explore leader.

We meet in Delhi at lunchtime and have an afternoon sightseeing tour of Old Delhi, visiting Jama Masjid mosque which is one of the largest and most well known in India and Chandni Chowk market place, built by Shah Jahan who also created the Taj Mahal.

We drive through India Gate and see the government buildings, before arriving at our accommodation tonight.

We will begin our cycle journey tomorrow and over the coming days we will be covering on average some 54 kilometres a day, spending up to six hours in the saddle.

This morning we leave Delhi behind and drive for about two hours along the Delhi-Jaipur highway to Neemrana, an historic old town that was once the capital of the Chaunan dynasty.